Improving 12v set up

Submitted: Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 11:02
ThreadID: 145133 Views:6655 Replies:11 FollowUps:43
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Hello

I am embarking on a project to improve the 12v set up in the rear of my 200 series Cruiser. Currently I have a 120ah lithium charged off a redarc DC-DC and with fixed 180w panel on the roof rack.

There is only 2 Cig and 1 dual USB ports running off this set up and the 65L Freezer is plugged into one of the Cig ports.

I am going to install a fixed air compressor with tank as I am sick of pulling out a portable unit all the time.

We are a family traveling around Aus full time and like to explore off the beaten track as much as we can so air up and down a couple of times a week depending where we are. The current set up can not cope with doing the car & caravan without over heating and I have found myself not airing down the van because airing up again is a pain which is not the right thing to do so will change my setup so it's easy to use and can also have good air to blow out to 10kg of sand the kids bring into the car every time we are near the beach.

I will be keeping this car forever as I love it so want to do it right and I would rather do it myself and buy $300 of tools and learn something new than pay someone $140 an HR and not know how to fix it if something goes wrong when remote.

I also want to add a LED light on the rear door to light up the cargo area, connect the LED lights that come in the MSA drawer, run thicker wire to the freezer as I think it has voltage drop and also have the provision to add a water pump for if I get around to installing a 40L water tank.

So while my 12v experience is limited I have a basic understanding and have installed and fixed basic things but have not designed a full system as such. I would rather do it myself, take 10x longer, cost twice as much but have the satisfaction in the end.

I have added a pic of how I think a good set up would work. The compressor I am going to order is a PX07 from boss air and maybe a 5L tank depending on room.

As the battery is under the wing kit I want to limit the amount of cables to the battery terminal as I need to rout out a recess because the terminal just touches.
Looking at using the Narva 6way fuse block
https://www.narva.com.au/products/54446bl/6-way-standard-ats-blade-fuse-or-plug-in-type-circuit-breaker-block--blister-pack-of-1-

With the + cable from battery to this block I am not sure what the best type of fuse or circuit breaker would be. If I use a manual circuit breaker then I don't need one on the fuse block. What have others used or recommend? Cable 8B&S?



1- switch
2- compressor
3- accessories
4- lights
5- water pump
6- freezer

The main bit of confusion for me is the compressor wiring with on off switch and pressure switch.
If a switch is going to a relay does it need a separate circuit (fuse) or can I use the same + to run to multiple switches if they all go to relays? Eg if I used a relay for the water pump where would I get the + supply for the switch? Power draw would be minimal.

Looking for any suggestions as I am learning and any tips or trick would help greatly.

I am looking to purchase this ratchet crimper
https://www.repco.com.au/en/globes-batteries-electrical/electrical-accessories/electrical-tools/narva-quick-change-ratchet-crimp-kit-56513/p/A9472670
Want to buy once and buy right.

And some wire stripers but not sure what type just to make the job easier and tidier.

Lots to learn!
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Reply By: AlbyNSW - Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 12:55

Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 12:55
Ditch the ciggy plug connection for your fridge and use an Anderson plug
The compressor will be high amperage draw so would wire that independently of your little fuse block with heavier cabling and fuse
The crimper you are looking at is really overkill for a DIY infrequently used one so you can save a few $$$ The equivalent Toledo brand one is available at SupaCheap for around $35 and works well. There are plenty of others in that price bracket also that will serve you well
AnswerID: 642359

Reply By: qldcamper - Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 16:25

Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 16:25
Agree with Alby about expensive ratchet crimpers, well any ratchet crimpers. Belanco make very good quality conventional crimping plyers that take up less room in your tool box and are lighter than the fancy ratchet ones. I have been using Belanco plyers professionally for over 40 years and am only on my 4th set, hate the ratchet ones.
Wire strippers is another thing everyone buys but never uses, just use side cutters, a little practice and its easy.
Use the money to buy better quality components instead of narva or projecta like all the one time builders and cheap arse caravan builders use.
AnswerID: 642360

Reply By: Hugh J2 - Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 17:15

Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 17:15
The crimper you are looking at only goes to 6 sq mm so wont do your 8 b&s you need to solder those. Your terminal box wont run your comp cables . Your comp runs abt 32 amps and heats up because of its duty cycle abt 20 minutes max . A twin comp runs abt 90 amps but pumps tyres in half the time
i think with your set up you should consider getting a bolt in system built for you. Then you just fit it and plug in all your stuff . Go to a few places and talk to the people there abt what you want,.
There is an extraordinary amount you need to learn about electricity before you touch . It looks easy only because the electrician is skilled.
AnswerID: 642363

Follow Up By: Member - Cuppa - Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 20:19

Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 20:19
Incorrect re the compressor I'm afraid.

Setting it up is not rocket science & the OP is very sensible in wanting to do it himself in order to understand . It makes a big difference knowing how it all works when needing to fix a problem in remote areas & on your own. With the understanding comes confidence which is a significant factor in feeling ok about getting well off the beaten track.

The PX07 has a 100% duty cycle & few other 12v compressor units on the market would keep up with it. It is also very simple & easily rebuilt by the owner if required.

I think the 31amps is an 'average figure & Boss recommend at least a 60amp circuit breaker. I have a 100amp Pollack type on the power supply to mine.
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Follow Up By: Peter_n_Margaret - Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 21:40

Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 21:40
32A is the maximum draw of a PX07. Fuses are to protect the wiring. It will run to 200psi and will maintain 150psi. They are rebuildable.
Mine is 16 years old and has never missed a beat.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
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Follow Up By: Croc099 - Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 23:14

Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 23:14
Get a crimper that will handle your wire sizes. I'd resist the urge to solder anything in an automotive environment.
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Follow Up By: qldcamper - Wednesday, Dec 21, 2022 at 07:28

Wednesday, Dec 21, 2022 at 07:28
Why Croc,
A soldered terminal done correctly will last more years than most people will. (In the automotive environment)
It is just that the average person does not know how to do it correctly.
Crimping is a lot quicker and easier but that too is not fool proof.
Over the years I, as have a lot of people on here, have done many thousands of both and a great deal both crimped and soldered in marine environment and cant say one is better than the other, both will fail if treated or prepaired or executed incorrectly.
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Follow Up By: Croc099 - Thursday, Dec 22, 2022 at 20:37

Thursday, Dec 22, 2022 at 20:37
qldcamper, the purpose of multi-stranded wire is for use in environments subject to movement and vibration. Soldering the strands together turns it into a solid conductor where they are prone to fracture. Walk through any car, bus, truck, aircraft etc and you will not find soldered connections in common use. In aircraft, CASA actually proscribes it. There's good reason for this and has pretty well zip to do with cost. Naturally, I agree with you about poorly executed terminations.
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Follow Up By: qldcamper - Thursday, Dec 22, 2022 at 21:21

Thursday, Dec 22, 2022 at 21:21
Aviation prohibits soldered terminals because of extreem temperature variations on every cycle.
Crimping in automotive is most common because of ease and speed, and a crimp can be fitted to to a cable that is black with corrosion by dodgy tradies, or people that dont know any better. If you have only a few anderson plugs and a couple of battery cables soldered will last as long as most vehicles these days, especially if people insist on using anderson plugs on fridge wiring and solar installations.
In the grand scale of things for the home handyman either will work just as well.
Like I said, I have done many thousands of both since the late 70ies and have found both satisfactory.
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Follow Up By: Croc099 - Thursday, Dec 22, 2022 at 21:48

Thursday, Dec 22, 2022 at 21:48
The CASA handbook states clearly why soldered terminations are proscribed in aircraft and it relates to vibration. Same for automotive, cost isn't a factor, reliability is. Why bother with stranded cables. Let's all use solid core twin. It's cheaper.
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Friday, Dec 23, 2022 at 00:08

Friday, Dec 23, 2022 at 00:08
.
Even when a solder lug is applied correctly a problem is always created.... at the point where the cable strand enters the pot of solder a point of stress is created and if vibration is applied then the copper hardens at that point and may eventually fracture. I have attended to failures caused from this.

In the past, before crimped lugs became available, good practice required that the cable was firmly supported to the structure closely to the lug such as to minimise the effects of vibration at the lug.

Even where crimped lugs are employed, it is also good practice to dress and support cables at terminations where constant vibration is present. This is appropriate especially in ship engine rooms, heavy machinery, and I imagine in aircraft.

Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: AlbyNSW - Friday, Dec 23, 2022 at 07:52

Friday, Dec 23, 2022 at 07:52
So Alan are you a scruncher or a folder? Edit sorry I meant to say are you a crimper or a solder ?
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Friday, Dec 23, 2022 at 08:33

Friday, Dec 23, 2022 at 08:33
.
Ah Alby, I'm definitely a scrimper.
Can't remember the last time I needed to scolder a lug!

Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: qldcamper - Friday, Dec 23, 2022 at 08:53

Friday, Dec 23, 2022 at 08:53
Croc,
Is all of your knowlege taken from handbooks and forums?
Have you ever had any experience in the field, or are you just an armchair expert that fails to acknowlege experience?
The big thing armchair experts dont realise is that everything is a compromise and perfection is often uneconomic in the automotive industry where experienced tradspeople learn to be economic and still achieving servicability for the desired service life.
Last time I looked, a LC200 was a car, not an aircraft, piece of mining equipment or highrise building.( you might want to consult your hand book or ask on a forum to confirm that)
Im going out on a limb here but I am pretty sure a pair of correctly soldered anderson plug terminals will serve satisfactorily for the service life of the vehicle, or until corrosion takes them out.

Allan,
I have seen soldered terminals melt and let go many times when starter circuits have failed and they have saved much worse damage acting as a thermal fuse, remember the days of the XA Falcon with the sticky ignition switches? Admittedly more through luck than design.
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Follow Up By: Member - Moya - Friday, Dec 23, 2022 at 13:29

Friday, Dec 23, 2022 at 13:29
After reading all that I am too scared to crimp or solder anything!

Might just use PVA glue and sticky tape.
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Follow Up By: qldcamper - Friday, Dec 23, 2022 at 13:57

Friday, Dec 23, 2022 at 13:57
Lol, wise choice.
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Follow Up By: Croc099 - Friday, Dec 23, 2022 at 23:03

Friday, Dec 23, 2022 at 23:03
qldcamper
Is there really any need to be a smartarse and waffle on about armchair experts, handbooks and forums. In reality, you have absolutely no idea and know nothing about me. For the record, I'm a degree qualified electrical engineer with over 40 years of industry practice including participation in standards committees. There's not much value arguing the toss with you except for the benefit of the forum readers. Someone who can't see the potential issues surrounding solid wire in vibrating and moving installation most likely never will. I've offered the reasons behind what I've stated. They have a solid fundamental foundation. Yes, you are going out on a limb and unfortunately, tinkering with old XA Falcons and "I'm pretty sure" just isn't good enough. Have a happy Xmas.
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Follow Up By: qldcamper - Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 08:47

Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 08:47
Typical engineer, all theoretical knowlege and very little experience in the real world, or should I say the world relivant to the topic, and convinced they know more about a field they have only dabbled in than someone that has been up to their neck in it for over 40 years.
Have a nice christmas, hope it fits into your theoretically perfect world.
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Follow Up By: Member - Outback Gazz - Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 09:11

Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 09:11
If anyone on here feels the need to argue over trivial $hitt, just let me know and I can put you in touch with my missus :)


Happy safe and stress free travels

Cheers
Gazz
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Follow Up By: Croc099 - Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 13:13

Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 13:13
qldcamper
Typical ignorance. Like I said, you know nothing about me. You only seem to want to attack me instead of the topic. The salient point remains, to wit, if you can't see the potential issue surrounding soldered connections in these environments then you never will.
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Follow Up By: qldcamper - Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 14:04

Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 14:04
Well Croc,
I may be ignorant to most of your life but you are a typical engineer.
You assume I "tinker" with vehicles.
Tinker is what engineers do when they get out of the office and their theoretically perfect world.
What I do is get paid to accuratly diagnose and repair vehicles and heavy mobile equipment and design and install systems to customers needs.
My pet hate is when I see people ask for advice and are given a bum steer.
A warning against bad advice is more valuable than good advice.
You still havent come up with any reason why it is unacceptable to use soldered terminals over crimped in an automotive environment, until someone can I will continue to use the best suited for the
Individule situation.
Have a lovely festive season and stay safe.
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 15:06

Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 15:06
.
Hey whoa there Qldcamper. I feel a need to come to the defence of "engineers" that you appear to deride.

Just because an engineer may spend time "in the office" does not presuppose that he has no expertise or understanding of the practical situation. Any more than supposing that a practising mechanic has no understanding of engineering concepts.
A "typical engineer" (your words) that has spent extended time at his profession will have often spent time "out of the office" inspecting and directing the practical works of a mechanic and will absorb and learn from that activity. Both engineers and mechanics have knowledge and skills that should be respected.

As to the relative merits of soldering or crimping electrical cable joints I think you may benefit in your knowledge and understanding if you research the subject carefully and comprehensively from respected sources.
Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: qldcamper - Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 15:46

Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 15:46
Agree Allan but the Typical engineer I was refering to is an attitude not their professional ability.

When someone tells someone that a practice that has been in use since the automotive industry began and was taught the practice by a technical institution and also a qualified tradesperson during a four year apprenticeship and has been successfully
using the technique for for 4 decades, that it doesnt work, then the person doing the telling has got to be an engineer.
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 15:49

Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 15:49
.
You may have read what I said but you have not understood.
Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: Croc099 - Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 21:55

Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 21:55
Qldcamper,
You are a sad man and still berate engineers even though it easy to see that you are totally clueless as to what the job function actually is. You now resort to lies and fabrications. Nowhere have I written that soldering connections doesn't work. I've merely pointed out the associated pitfalls which crimping avoids. Your claim that that I have not come up with any reason why it is unacceptable to use soldered terminals over crimped in an automotive environment is an outright lie. I've explained the reasons more than once. Allan has hit the nail on the head. You may read but do not understand. You may do as you wish. The readers of the forum will have the mental acuity to understand what I've written and if they wish, conduct their own research on the topic.
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Follow Up By: Greg W22 - Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 22:28

Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 22:28
Ignore him croc. Don't know what books he reads to reply to posts but he gives poor advice. His electrical knowledge is questionable. I'm also an electrical engineer with over 40 years experience. Have a good Xmas.
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Follow Up By: Croc099 - Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 22:55

Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 22:55
Greg,
You have a great Xmas yourself. Good advice,
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Follow Up By: qldcamper - Sunday, Dec 25, 2022 at 08:19

Sunday, Dec 25, 2022 at 08:19
Greg,
Unlike engineers, experienced tradespeople dont need to read books to answer posts, we know what we are talking about from years of experience, not become an over night expert because we read a book on the subject.
Croc,
Your response fits perfectly into the "engineer" category conforming to the rules of assuming your more inteligent than everyone else and being incapable of admitting you dont know everything about everything.
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Sunday, Dec 25, 2022 at 08:58

Sunday, Dec 25, 2022 at 08:58
.
Qldcamper, have you been getting into the Christmas brandy on the side?
I thought that you were OK until now!

Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: Member - Cuppa - Sunday, Dec 25, 2022 at 09:28

Sunday, Dec 25, 2022 at 09:28
Peter_n_Margaret posted:
32A is the maximum draw of a PX07. Fuses are to protect the wiring. It will run to 200psi and will maintain 150psi. They are rebuildable.
Mine is 16 years old and has never missed a beat.
Cheers,
Peter

Hi Peter, I agree that that is what it says on some of the current advertising for the PX07, but that is significantly lower than what they used to specify, & I don''t believe the compressors have changed. I think Boss have mistakenly mixed up the current draw between the 24v & 12v models on their site. If you look on the Boss site you will see the amps you have quoted showing the same for both 24v & 12v models which can't be right. The following screenshot taken from one current ad online for the 12v PX07 concurs with what I recall the figures were when I bought mine. The photo is of the sticker attached to my PX07


EDIT: Just found this short video from Boss which also confirms current draw of up to 60 amps.
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Follow Up By: qldcamper - Sunday, Dec 25, 2022 at 09:55

Sunday, Dec 25, 2022 at 09:55
Lol, i think I need to Allan,
Just sick of a lot of engineers holier than though attitude.
They think when they anounce they are an"engineer" everyone should bow down and kiss their ass.
Might work in their place of employment where people respect their area of expertise but many seem to think it carries out into the real world.
You are welcome to have what ever opinion of me you want, I am past the age of caring what people think of me.
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Follow Up By: Member - Moya - Sunday, Dec 25, 2022 at 09:56

Sunday, Dec 25, 2022 at 09:56
I have mine on order and will report back on what amps it draws.

From that info Cuppa it looks like you are right that they would draw more than the 31amp stated. Not a good look if they have mucked up something so simple on their specs.
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Follow Up By: Croc099 - Sunday, Dec 25, 2022 at 22:23

Sunday, Dec 25, 2022 at 22:23
Qldcamper,
Your credibility is approaching zero. When challenged for reasonable answers you simply obfuscate and tell lies. Where's this "holier than thou" attitude you write about. Where is there some suggestion that you should genuflect and kiss my arse. There isn't any. You made it up as usual. You may have trouble remembering that it was actually you who suggested my experience comes from books and forums and further claimed that I was simply an armchair expert. What do you expect me to respond with. I reveal my profession and experience but somehow you take this as a request to kiss my arse. Keep telling porkies. Keep it up, you're just making a bigger goose of yourself. It's actually quite funny but sad.

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Follow Up By: qldcamper - Monday, Dec 26, 2022 at 09:06

Monday, Dec 26, 2022 at 09:06
Well Croc, at least you have a better picture of how people see you.
You just cant bring yourself to admit on occasion it is acceptable to use soldered terminals in recreational vehicles.
If people insist on using plugs that are designed for 10+ times the current the appliance requires soldering is no less dodgy than any other way of securing the terminal and a lot quicker than trying to source sleeves if they even exit.
Another plus for solder is that most anderson style plugs are cheap chinese rip offs and the crimping area is not as strong as the genuine pins so with those, soldering will last longer than a correctly applied crimp.
Solder may reduce the flexibility of the cable, but doesnt the strands being tightly crimped together do the same thing?
I seem to find an aweful lot of plugs on dozers with wires broken off at the crimped terminal.
Wicking up the cable is another arguement against solder, and a valid one at that, but using the meathod described by a member earlier in the thread there is not enough solder or heat for the solder to wick beyond the area that would be compressed by a crimp.
The correct thing to do in this instance would be to use a plug and receptical that is more suited to the application, but I appriciate people wanting to keep to an overall uniformity in their systems as cumbersom as anderson plugs are.
My advice to the OP is to keep an open mind and accept the fact that sometimes the inferior meathod is the better choice. It isnt as easy as drawing fancy diagrams on a computer screen.
The best way is not always the most logical way. If you solder the terminal carefully odds are you will never have a problem, and if you do the fix will be easy as the terminal remains reusable.

I am not an engineer, I am a tradesman so most of my knowlege comes from experience, both mine and that of the people training me or working with me.
I know a soldered terminal if treated correctly WILL last a very long time through having done countless amounts of them and to my knowlege successfully.
Maybe one of the design engineers on here can demonstrate the life expectancy of a soldered anderson pin as compared to a crimped one? And then compare it to the design life of your vehicle.
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Reply By: Member - A_P - Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 17:59

Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 17:59
I have one of these for anderson plugs.
Works well
crimper
AnswerID: 642364

Follow Up By: AlbyNSW - Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 20:46

Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 20:46
I have the same and agree they are good
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Reply By: Member - Cuppa - Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 19:56

Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 19:56
Not sure if this will help. I did something similar in our car & it has worked well for us over the past 5 years + of full time travel. By 'worked well' I mean it has done the job in an easy to use manner, & on the rare occasion that we have had any problem the problem solving process has been straight forward.

The main differences to what you are proposing are two things on the load side of things.
1. I used a Blueseas circuit breaker distribution board utilising switchable magnetic hydraulic type circuit breakers. This allows the circuit breakers to double as switches so no need for additional switches. They are ultra reliable & less in the circuits means less to go wrong.
2. I used power from this circuit board to switch a relay to operate our PX07 compressor, powering the compressor from the vehicle's start battery. It has a fairly heavy current draw & I think it better to use it from the start battery whilst the car is running on a fast idle.

I used a 6 position distribution board which can handle a a max of 100amps total with a variety of CB sizes from 5 to 50amps (the latter for an inverter used with a Makita fast charger for 18v batteries- 30 amp proved too small & would trip). This is not my actual one - a photo off the Blueseas web page the same as mine.


The Circuit breakers I used are the C Toggle type.https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/14/33/Circuit_Breakers/C-Series?Actuator_Style=Toggle

Easy to put together.

And this is my 'Loads' diagram.



One mistake I made was that the compressor is not in reaching distance of the switch on the distribution board (it's on the opposite side of the car), so I did add a switch into the the trigger wire from distribution board to Compressor relay., Next to the compressor. Just a normal household surface mount single switch.

I use a 9 litre aluminium Boss tank. Very nicely made & relatively light. It does allow use of a blow gun - very handy, but if you wanted to use air tools it's too small.

I also used anderson plugs to connect my fridge & freezer.
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Reply By: Member - Moya - Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 22:31

Monday, Dec 19, 2022 at 22:31
Thanks for the replies.

With the fridge I will definitely add an Anderson plug. How big of a job is it to replace the factory 2 pin with an Anderson plug on the actual fridge. Thought this would become a weak point as that plug can come loose and would like thicker cable all the way to the freezer.

When setting up the solar panel I used one of these I borrowed off a fellow camper
https://www.jaycar.com.au/heavy-duty-terminal-crimper/p/TH1849
Worked well when lined up correctly. I needed an earth lug put on the end of some 8b&s cable and didn't have one so went to the local auto sparky who I got the cable off and he used ratchet crimpers, it was very quick and seemed very tight ( this is where I got the idea for getting some for myself)

Cuppa thanks for your info and diagrams. Looks like there are no retailers for BlueSeas in South Aus so will look at online options. Looks like it will be a good option. I am happy to pay the money for quality gear. The reason I have looked into Narva is every quote from Auto sparkies I have received on previous jobs has used Narva. Good to know there are other options.

In regards to running the compressor off the starter I planed on using the Aux as it will be 1m away from the compressor and being lithium should supply 13v. When running there will be 25A from the DC-DC flowing in aswell. Can you see this being a problem?

At the moment I have time on my hands being at the inlaws for a few weeks so need a project before I go mad! About to start building a new fridge slide with drawer underneath and box around it. Have just found a 43L water tank which will fit.

I will have everything apart so may aswell do the 12v aswell. Don't like my chances of getting a auto sparky for the next month and be buggered if I want to pull everything out again.

So any advice on cable sizes, circuit breakers, fuses, relays or tips on the best types of crimps or pliers helps me alot.

Give a man a fish he eats for a day - Tell a man a good fishing spot, the best bait to use, what time to go, what rig and rod type to use then he might catch a fish every now and then but he will enjoy it more eating a fish he caught... Kinda makes sense doesn't it :)

AnswerID: 642367

Follow Up By: Bob Y. - Qld - Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 07:38

Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 07:38
Whitworths sell Blueseas gear. They are at 85 St. Vincent St, Port Adelaide 5015
Phone 08 8240 3777

Website here.

Bob

Seen it all, Done it all.
Can't remember most of it.

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Follow Up By: AlbyNSW - Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 08:07

Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 08:07
Moya with the fridge lead you just cut the ciggy plug off leaving about 6 inches of cable and fit an Anderson plug on both cable ends so you can always plug the ciggy end back on should you want to use the fridge in a situation where Anderson plug power is not available
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Follow Up By: Member - Moya - Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 08:51

Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 08:51
When installing the Anderson lugs onto the small cable is there a way to crimp them eg fold cable over and twist to make it big enough or just solder them in?
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Follow Up By: Member - Cuppa - Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 09:11

Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 09:11
Most Blueseas retailers are in the boating sector.
Plenty online do mail order.
BCF sell some of their stuff too.

Worth doing a bit of research, prices can vary quite a bit, or at least that's what I found when doing mine.
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Follow Up By: Croc099 - Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 23:18

Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 23:18
Small cables into Anderson lugs. You can get different sized lugs or use a sleeve.
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 14:46

Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 14:46
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Moya, you asked.... "When installing the Anderson lugs onto the small cable is there a way to crimp them eg fold cable over and twist to make it big enough or just solder them in?" but have yet to receive an answer.

At the risk of getting flamed I will tell you that there have been a few times where I have not had the correct size lug available and have resorted to doubling-back the cable to more fill the lug before crimping. None of these have failed to my knowledge. Provided that the double-backed cable now goes close to filling the lug then it appears to the cable/lug/crimp combination to be a single cable of appropriate proportions to enable a satisfactory crimp to be performed. I know it was not intended to be performed that way but with the above sizing proviso it works OK. Just not kosher, that's all!

I would say that DO NOT TWIST the double-backed conductors but allow them to remain laying in an essentially parallel manner. In this way a good crimp will result as the conductors can closely nestle and be compressed by the crimp action into a rather solid lump of copper. If twisted, the conductors lie across each other and create a more lattice-like form which does not crimp so well. This advice applies equally to a single bunch of conductors with a slight twist. Leave them in the manufactured lay, do not twist them into a tight twisted form.
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Allan

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Reply By: Member - McLaren3030 - Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 07:26

Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 07:26
I have a cable crimper from Supercheap Auto, less than $10. Yes it is light weight, so you need to have strong hands when using it on thick cable, but it does the job. Has wire stripper, cable cutter as well as crimper.

Macca.
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AnswerID: 642369

Follow Up By: Happy Explorer - Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 16:43

Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 16:43
Hi Moya
I use genuine Anderson plugs on everything around my camp site. And I mean everything, even the Christmas lights I bought two days ago to entertain the grandkids over Christmas now has an Anderson plug fitted
They have very thin wire but I have always fitted by standing the lugs on end and filling with solder
Usually use heat shrink over the two core cable where it splits into two for appearance as much as supporting the cable a bit as well
Enjoy your Christmas
Roy
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FollowupID: 921885

Reply By: Member - Outback Gazz - Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 09:12

Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 09:12
G'day Moya

Re: compressor - I have always been told by the people who install compressors to run the heaviest cable you can to the start battery and always have the engine running when using the compressor.

I ran a 4wd tour company for ten years and often reinflated up to eight vehicles non stop without issue !
Currently running an ARB twin in my Ranger and a Thumper twin in my 200 series and still doing the same thing without issue. Previous set ups I had would always over heat !


Happy safe and quick reinflating travels

Cheers
Gazz

AnswerID: 642370

Reply By: Member - DOZER - Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 09:59

Tuesday, Dec 20, 2022 at 09:59
No1 change the cigarette lighter plug for an engel plug or even an anderson plug, on the fridge lead. 100% positive connection that wont bump out and leave you with spoiled food.
no2 put a large mini fuse block or similar straight on the terminal of the battery. Wires rub through and get pinched, you dont want a fire in therewhen its full of gear....look up abr sidewinder on google for some ideas of whats available. I have their battery post 100 amp fuseable link for instance.
Down stream, have your fuse block with individual less current rated fuses and your relay block for the high current accessories like compressor. Jaycar is a good place for buying the gear you were talking about, some of their relays have a fuse incorperated. I just bought a 100 amp relay from there to run my dc to dc only whilst motor running for instance, but they also have 60, 40, 30 15 amp units.
AnswerID: 642372

Reply By: Member - Moya - Friday, Dec 23, 2022 at 13:38

Friday, Dec 23, 2022 at 13:38
I have managed to move the battery enough so now I have clearance on the + terminal. Now it doesn't worry me how many + cables come off it but do want to minimize to keep it tidy.

Trying to find a 5 switch 100a circuit breaker panel that will fit in the space I have then will run a separate small fuse block for the light draw Accessories.

CUPPA what program did you use to draw up your diagram? Would make it easier to work it out in my head and adjust if I didn't have to draw on 20 bits of paper.
AnswerID: 642383

Follow Up By: Member - Cuppa - Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 10:36

Saturday, Dec 24, 2022 at 10:36
That diagram was just in Mac's Paintbrush programme, the Mac equivalent of Microsoft 'Paint' - there would have been a number of 'back of envelope' drawings first, but essential to keep a good copy for future reference.


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Reply By: Member - Moya - Wednesday, Jan 04, 2023 at 11:28

Wednesday, Jan 04, 2023 at 11:28
The PX07 compressor has arrived and it has on it max amp draw of 38amps. I emailed Boss to clarify the correct information pointing out the info on the website relating to the 12v & 24v being the same amp draw. They replied stating the info on the website is wrong for the 24v and correct for the 12v @38amp draw.

Distance from battery will be 2m so 8B&S should handle it with a 50amp circuit breaker.
Let me know if you would use different.

The kit I got with the 9L air tank comes with a 100amp 100% duty cycle solenoid and pressure switch. All I need to do now is finish my fridge box & slide then I can start to mount it all up to make sure it fits as it's a big unit.

Also I have taken the advice in regards to the ratchet crimpers. I am heading to Jaycar in the next few days and will get good quality manual crimpers along with other supplies.

AnswerID: 642489

Follow Up By: Member - Moya - Sunday, Jan 29, 2023 at 22:29

Sunday, Jan 29, 2023 at 22:29
Just a quick follow up for anyone researching this compressor its max draw so far is 31amp up to the 135psi cut off. Takes 3mins to fill 9L air tank.
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FollowupID: 922375

Follow Up By: Member - Boobook - Monday, Jan 30, 2023 at 05:19

Monday, Jan 30, 2023 at 05:19
You should put 6 B&S or even 4 B&S for the mainwiring IMHO
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FollowupID: 922376

Follow Up By: Member - Moya - Monday, Jan 30, 2023 at 09:34

Monday, Jan 30, 2023 at 09:34
I ended up putting the compressor closer to the battery so only 1.2m of cable so a pretty short run.

It has a 60amp circuit breaker 100mm from the battery and that is lower than what 8b&s is rated for so it would trip before the cable gets hot and with 31amp draw I didn't think voltage drop on that distance would be an issue.

Would you still recommend 6b&s for that short run?
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